Updated: Oct 11, 2022
The Morgan Jeans are a non-stretch relaxed fit Boyfriend style Jean, and they are so comfortable I had to make another pair! I decided to do a zip fly rather than the button fly, as just my preference.
There are many variations of pocket designs you can topstitch. Initially it is best to interface the pocket. You can then transfer your design onto your pocket using a template to ensure you get then symmetrical. The best way to do this is using a tracing wheel and carbon paper.
I decided to do a zip fly as I prefer it to a button fly. Firstly the two front leg pieces are sewn right sides together aligning the fly extensions and the crotch seam. A basting stitch is then sewn from the top notch down to the circle transferred from your pattern piece. At the circle you can change to a normal stitch and firstly backstitching then sewing to the end. You then snip the corner of the fly extension to the circle mark and press the fly extension open and the finished crotch seam to the left. You then topstitch along the entire length of the centre front seam.
The zipper is pinned face down on the right fly extension, aligning the zipper 3/4" from the bottom of the fly extension and the zipper teeth should be 1/2" away from the centre front seam. The zipper is topstitched and then sewn to the other fly extension. The topstitch guide for your fly extension is then used to trace a line along for you to stich ensuring you catch in the fly extension beneath. Bar tacks are then added to give additional strength to the zipper.
I usually hack the waistband slightly. I prefer to put a binding edge to the inside waistband edge and then stitch in the ditch to secure the waistband. I feel this offers less folded bulk at the waistband and is much more comfortable to wear.
Finally I decided to make the sagebrush top by Friday Pattern Company to go with my jeans in one of our gorgeous rayon fabrics. This is a gorgeous top and so very comfortable to wear, made in a lightweight fabric like this Rayon it is soft and drapey, but you could make in a cotton or linen to give the puff sleeves more of an accent.
Happy Sewing Everyone!
Best Wishes the NFSS team